Monday, 14 September 2015

Interim Submission 1: Functional Model



The above images are of the first prototype at the time of submission for feedback. The model looks how I planned it to but functionally it is not at a working level. The tech pack is working but still without a switch and I am not happy with the finish of the lights as they are. The metallic card gives an indication of how the light reflects on its surroundings, I am happy with the way that the table and wall behind are illuminated.

The magnetic mechanism works really well but would benefit from having more positions, this would make the movement feel a lot smoother and consequently provide a better user experience. I also thought that it would benefit from being able to swivel at that point as well as the two lower joins.

The plumbing joints that I used were not ideal as they were not completely round and therefore required a larger hole to be able to turn. This resulted in them being too loose and the model is not able to stand unassisted as a consequence. This is a fixable problem, but will require finding the right piece to make it work smoothly.

Feedback

  • As a concept the design is working but feels a bit clunky at its current size and width, might consider making the circles thinner to make it feel more delicate.
  • The lights are quite harsh to look at, could possibly use a third material to cover and disperse the light such as acrylic or a thin veneer of blackwood.
  • The middle circle doesn't need to be solid just because it houses the mechanism for the top circle to move. The mechanism could be redesigned to allow the circle to be hollow like the other two.


Making Functional Model: MDF and cardboard


I decided to substitute my materials for this prototype to save on costs. I used MDF instead of blackwood and shiny cardboard in the place of copper. I used 16mm MDF and cut the circles out with a jigsaw and then rounded them on the sanding wheel. I cut the inside circles with a 150mm hole saw.



I experimented with using plumbing fittings as a swivel method because they are hollow to allow for cables to go through them. I used circular nuts on each end to hold them in place and chiseled grooves into the inside of the MDF circle to house them. These parts are not ideal, I will need to source a less clunky option for further prototyping.




I created a mechanism for the top circle to change positions using magnets to hold it in place. I got strong rare earth magnets from C pol in Melrose Park and drilled holes into the wood so that the magnets sit flush in line with the surface. I chose to use 5 positions for this prototype but I could potentially have as many settings as I like. 






Tech Pack

For my tech pack I am using LED strips and a 12 volt power pack purchased at Jaycar. At this stage I have not included a switch, but there will need to be one in future prototypes. I chose to get warm white LED's because the bright white can he a bit too bright and also the warm tones will look better with the warm colour of the copper. This kind of LED's can be cut to any length and the 12 volt pack can power up to 2.5 metres.




I drilled a hole through the pivoting bar to allow the cable to get to the top circle of the lamp without being seen and I allowed enough slack in the wire so that it can still reach no matter what position it is in, the tech is still connected.


I punched holes in the cardboard to line up with the LED's. It was very hard to get them to line up because the distance between the lights was different when they were curved than when they were laid flat. It occurs to me that this will be even harder when trying to drill the holes in the copper.


The below photo is the complete tech installed before I nailed on the final middle piece. 





Sunday, 6 September 2015

An iteration on my original design, I have flipped the materials so that the copper is on the edges of the open circles and on the front and back of the solid circle. This means that there is copper lining the inside of the inner circles. As copper cannot be translucent I will need to drill hoes in the copper to fit the LED's. My hope is that the hammered copper will reflect the LED's and shine patterns on the lamp surroundings.